Saturday, November 8, 2008

Going to the Movies in Paris

So tonight I decided to go to the movies. There are several big theaters on the Champs-Élysées and since I was over in that area, I decided to see the new James Bond movie, Quantum of Solace (which apparently isn't out yet in the US???).

Anyhow, before anyone gives me a hard time about going to the movies in Paris... let me just say that my quest in coming here for a month was to experience what it would be like to live here. And if I lived here, going to the movies on occasion is something that I would do - not something someone would likely do here on vacation. So it seemed like a perfectly logical way to spend a Friday evening! Ok, I'm done being defensive now ;-)

So a few observations from the experience:

I never realized this on any of my previous trips to Paris, but most of the new American film releases that are shown here are actually shown in English, with French subtitles! The way you can tell for sure is when you look up at the movie posters on the theater, if it says VO (standing for Version Original) somewhere down at the bottom, then that means it's in English. I can't believe I never knew that!

So tonight I saw the new James Bond movie in a very large theater filled with several hundred French people and as I watched and listened to the movie normally, they all had to read the subtitles. Wild! I guess with the new releases, there isn't time to get them dubbed? Not sure - I'll have to Google that to find out more ;-)

The theater itself reminded me more of one you'd see a concert in than a movie. It had a stage and curtain. The seats were semi-stadium - tiered, but not as much as at home. And the seats didn't recline or have cup holders, but... they were very cushy and more like living room chairs that movie theater seats. When the lights dimmed, the curtain opened and there was a full 25 minutes of fluff. Only two movie previews, the rest was regular commercials for everything from perfume to travel offers. Once the ads were done, the lights came back on and the curtain closed. Then a few minutes later, all the lights went out completely, the curtain opened and the main feature began. A bit peculiar. But nobody seemed confused by what had transpired but me, so I 'think' this is normal in France.

One thing I found really interesting was that people did NOT tolerate talking - which was great! Every time you'd hear a peep, people would loudly shoosh them. But that was actually quite odd given the fact that most of the people in the theater were reading the dialogue, not listening to it. I guess going to the movies is a great way to learn English and/or improve your English skills!

p.s. The Bond movie was good - not excellent. TONS of action (as you'd expect), but the storyline was a little lacking.

Click here to view all of today's photos (11/08/08)

Friday, November 7, 2008

Castles of the Loire Valley

The Loire Valley excursion lasted about 14 (wonderful) hours. I will post extensively this weekend - I promise - with tons of pics of the castles! I know I am falling far behind in getting photos up - I'll try and get caught up this weekend. But for now.... here's one shot of me in front of the Château de Chambord from yesterday. More later!



Click here to view all of today's photos (11/07/08)

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Les Catacombes de Paris


Have you ever seen that show "Cities of the Underworld" on the History Channel? Something I've wanted to do for years is visit the Catacombs of Paris. I tried to a few years ago (I think on the trip here with Sherri), but they were closed for repair. Finally, today I was able to see them.

First off, very spooky. You have to go down a very deep and narrow winding staircase that seems to go on forever. When it ends, you are in a vast maze of underground tunnels below the city streets of Paris that are filled with the remains (bones and skulls) of six million people. The bones were moved there in the late 1700s, early 1800s due to a concern that where they were buried was a danger to public health. In the pictures you'll see the bones all neatly stacked. Believe it or not, this was done recently but happened back around 1810 during the time of Napolean I. I'll post more photos later, but for now I wanted to give you a sneak peek! If you are interested in learning more about the history of the catacombs, click here to visit the Web site.



I set off through the tunnels at a quick pace but after a few minutes got a little scared when I didn't see anyone (alive) in front or behind me! So I slowed up until I could hear the people behind me and always stayed within earshot of their footsteps! This afternoon was a very unique and different Paris experience.

Have to cut this short tonight and get to bed - early day tomorrow! I have to be up and out by 6:30am for a tour I'm taking. I'll be spending the day a couple hours outside of Paris in the countryside of the Loire Valley to see castles - the kind fairy tales are based on! I'll be visiting three of the most beautiful château over the course of the day: Cheverny, Chambord and Chenonceau.

Click here to view all of today's photos (11/06/08)

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

An Afternoon at the Palace of Versailles

It was such a beautiful day today - 60 degrees and sunny - that I couldn't bear the thought of being inside. So I decided to take a day trip to the Palace of Versailles, about 40 minutes outside of central Paris. It's pretty easy to get to Versailles, the Metro (RER C line) goes all the way there and it's just a 10 minute walk from the train station once you arrive.

I have been to Versailles before, but it has been many years. Admittedly, the grounds and gardens are much more beautiful in spring and summer when the fountains are running and the flowers are in bloom. But even in the autumn, the château and its grounds are awe inspiring.

I spent the afternoon at Versailles then made my way back to Paris. On the Metro, I was sitting across from a Vietnamese couple. The woman spoke to me in French (that's the second time that's happened in the past two days - I take that as a compliment that I'm 'blending in'). Anyhow, when I told her I didn't speak French, she spoke to me in broken English. She said that she has lived in Paris for the past 15 years. And then like the guy last night, asked me about the election. She acted concerned that I was here on election day but was relieved when I told her that I had voted early before coming to Paris. She too mentioned she hoped Obama would win.

And if you were watching CNN today, you saw that they did a segment live from Paris where there are big election parties going on. The French are almost as excited as we are!

On the way back home I got off the Metro at the stop where the Paris Opera House is - so beautiful! And then walked behind it a block to "the" department store in Paris - Galeries Lafayette. They (3 stores) were all lit up for Christmas and were totally packed! So much energy, so much to see - I was like a kid in a candy store. I only bought a few things - this time ;-) One of the things I got was a CD of French Christmas carols/music.

I'm sort of embarrassed to say this but I actually stayed there almost as long as I stayed at Versailles this afternoon! I heard on the news (Sky News out of London) this morning, that Europe is officially in a recession. From the looks of things at the Galeries Lafayette tonight though, I don't think the people of Paris got that memo....

I took tons of photos at Versailles and at the Galeries Lafayette and will post them later tonight on my main photo site. I'll add a link here once they are posted!

Meanwhile... it's already after midnight here and it's still an hour or so before the first polls close in the US (two hours before Florida's polls close). I don't want to miss any of the action, but I may have to take a nap in the middle of the night in order to be awake to hear the result! It could be 7 or 8 am here (1 or 2am Florida time) before there's a winner - or later, God forbid. It should be an exciting night! I'm going to pick up a copy of the Paris newspaper Le Monde on Thursday (and other European papers if I can find them) to see how the world reacts to who wins.

Click here to view all of today's photos (11/04/08)

Election Day

Election day is FINALLY here - woo hoo! Many of you have asked if they are making much of the election here. Does this photo answer the question? Yes, it is a HUGE deal here and all across Europe.

As I walked to Monoprix earlier, a man came up and asked me a question in French. When I politely said, "Je ne parle pas francais," he asked what language and I said English. He then started speaking to me in English and asked if I was from the United States and who I was hoping would win the election. I said Obama and he broke out in a huge smile and said, "We can only hope!"


A little further down the street I walked past a store window where the whole theme was the election, depicting it as a heavy weight boxing match.


I taped some of a French news broadcast tonight (see below). I didn't have the volume up loud enough though, so it may be difficult for you to hear. I will cut a better segment tomorrow during the election coverage. But for now, click on the slide below to watch:

From Movies

Monday, November 3, 2008

L'accident: An Update

So after the shower incident on Friday night, I spent all day Saturday in the apartment with my foot up alternating between ice and compression. By the time it got dark I was starving (and more importantly had run out of Diet Coke), so I hobbled (literally) across the street to the market to buy some food. (Note to self: remember to only buy as much as you can carry AND as much as will fit in a tiny mini-fridge!)

Saturday I kept off the ankle until mid-afternoon and then I just couldn't take being in Paris and being locked away in my apartment for another minute! So I put on my old-school hightop black sneakers (which were GREAT because they totally supported my ankle) and I went out exploring!

I walked close by to the Rue Montorgueil which is one of Paris' oldest market streets. It's pedestrian only and full of shops and cafes. Then I walked over past the Louvre, across the Seine, over to Notre Dame Cathedral, back over the Seine, through the Marais district (w/a pit stop at a crepe stand for a piping hot crepe fromage) and then back to my apartment - about 4 hours of walking. I know, I know... but it was such a nice afternoon! Anyhow, resting my ankle all day Saturday and wearing the hightops seemed to do the trick. I was a little sore when I got home, but by this morning, my ankle is almost feeling normal again - yeah!

So tonight I went to Monoprix - kind of like a Super Target, but tiny so imagine a Micro Target! I couldn't find a mat for the shower of death, but I found these little suction cup fish. Of course when I took a shower tonight, the fish started moving. Or were they swimming...

Who knew that the most dangerous thing about living in a foreign country would be taking a shower!

Click here to view all of today's photos (11/03/08)

Photos of l'appartement - Part Deux

Photos of My Building

Here are a few photos I took today of my apartment building (outside and in).

Sunday, November 2, 2008

History of the Rue du Croissant

How's this for coincidence... or is it a sign of some sort??? Not sure, but I find it quite interesting that I should come all the way across the ocean to this large city and of all the places I could have found to stay, the apartment I have rented to live in is in the heart of what was once Paris' historic newspaper district dating back all the way to the French Revolution and having historical significance relating to the press all the way through the asassination that took place there on the eve of WWI...

From a few Web sites I found:

"Home to the free press of Paris... by 1840 this had become a working-class neighbourhood in the heart of the capital, dominated by the teeming bustle and din of the press industry, which had first settled here during the Revolution, when Père Duchesse published a lewd, anarchical paper on rue de Damiette. It was in the tiny area enclosed by rues Saint-Joseph, du Croissant and des Jeûneurs that the political destiny of France was largely determined."

"Rue du Croissant (seventeenth century) is a street of ancient houses and the chief newspaper street of the city. Paper hawkers crowd there at certain hours each day, then rush away, vying with one another to call attention to their stock-in-trade. At No. 22, Café du Croissant, at the corner where this street meets the Rue Montmartre, journalists assemble, and there the notable Socialist, Jaurès, was shot dead on the eve of the outbreak of war, July 31st, 1914. The sign at No. 18 is said to date from 1612."

"The next door la Chope du Croissant, on the corner of rue du Croissant, was one of the papermen's hang-outs. On 31 July 1914, at 9:30pm, Jean Jaurès was having an animated dinner there with fellow journalists from his paper l'Humanité, when Raoul Villain shot at him twice through the window for having opposed the breakout of World War I.

"It was Jean Jaurès, who on April 18 1904, signing the first issue of the journal. His first address is 110, rue Richelieu, in the Second district of Paris. The place is occupied by the newspaper until 1909, when the writing moves at 16 Rue du Croissant (this is my exact building!!!). On the pediment of the building, you can read "Printing Press". This is the address of humanity between 1909 and 1915."

"Ironically Jaurès became the war's first victim, whilst his assassin benefited from the 'confusion of the time', in other words, from the prevailing nationalist hysteria, and was acquitted. The café's name has since been shortened to le Croissant, but Jaurès' table is still there, with the victim's blood stain that never came off. There is also a copy of the next morning front page of l'Humanité announcing the death of Jaurès along with cuttings from other papers."

"Sale of evening papers in the Rue du Croissant"
Illustration from 'La Petite Gironde, 1899.


Click here to view all of today's photos (11/02/08)

Saturday, November 1, 2008

L'accident

So I had a slight accident last night...

I slipped in the shower and twisted my ankle. At first I thought it was no big deal - just bruised. But by the end of the night I couldn't put any weight on it without a lot of pain.

I looked it up online and it said ice, compression, elevation, rest. And some sites said to alternate ice with heat.

Well, I have no ice (or ice trays - must add them to the shopping list, along with a non-slip showermat!). But there was a lot of frost build up in the freezer so I scraped off as much as I could, put it in a ziplock bag and voila. I also brought these little air activated heat packs with me - just in case - and put one of them on the injury in my sock overnight.

Sadly, the ankle is really no better today. I didn't bring bandages, but I did some makeshift compression by wrapping a stocking tightly around my foot this morning - that seemed to help a little. And I filled a ziplock with water last night and put it in the freezer compartment so this morning I have a proper ice pack which is on my foot now.

Luckily the studio is as small as it is. I can almost reach everything from my bed - ha! My biggest concern is that I only have a little diet coke left and as for food, a half a baguette, some microwave popcorn and some cookies (which I thankfully brought with me). I may have to hobble across the street to the market tonight to get some supplies.

I've never twisted my ankle before, so of course it would happen in a foreign country, right? It's really just more an inconvenience than anything (I hope anyhow). I'd rather be out and about today instead of watching tv in bed - afterall, I am in Paris! But then again, this trip is about experiencing "living" here not being a tourist per se, and I guess if I lived here, there would be days when I stayed home and chilled. So I figure it's all part of the experience.

I think it will be fine if I just stay off of it for a couple of days. Of course I don't have much of a choice as it hurts too much to walk on right now! So send good thoughts my way as I'd rather not report on this blog about the experience of going to un docteur à Paris. L'expérience française...

Friday, October 31, 2008

L'appartement à Paris

I haven't taken any photos of the place yet, but I realized that the pics of the apartment that the agency has on their Web site are pretty representative, so until I get things personalized a bit and take my own shots, here's a sneak peak at my tiny, tiny little studio!


A couple things you don't see in the photos... in the kitchen there is another wall that has a toaster oven, microwave and the tiniest washing machine (for clothes) I've ever seen! And in the bathroom, there is a shower (no tub). I just opened up the couch into the bed and it fills the room! But really, it's just fine for me. Let's call it cozy ;-) The building is really nice and very secure. And the apartment is very clean and has everything (blow dryer, vacuum, iron, dishes).

And most importantly, I have all the gadgets I need - high speed internet, hundreds of cable tv channels (albeit only a few in English), a nice flat panel tv, dvd player and stereo system. I brought my computer of course. And I also brought a printer, so I used the table to set up a little workstation/desk.

I'm still not totally unpacked... little storage space so it's taking some time to figure out where to put things. Tomorrow I'll finish up and go to the store to get some groceries (all I have in my fridge right now is diet coke, water and a baguette)! I also want to pick up a few things to make the place seem a little more homey as I get settled in for my stay here in Paris.

I'm about a 5 minute walk to the nearest Metro station. Today I bought my Navigo Decouverte card. It's a photo ID 'smart card' for tourists that I bought prepaid for the month of November, so all I have to do is wave it in front of the turnstiles in the Metro instead of buying hundreds of little paper tickets (billets) while I'm here. It will be much more convenient, but I'm kind of going to miss those little paper tickets. Ah, the march of progress...

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Je suis arrivé

It should come as no surprise that I did not actually pack until the morning of my departure. And in that craziness, for the first time in many years, I was actually a bit nervous and unsettled as I locked up the house and rushed to the airport to catch my flight.

But as they say, "All's well that ends well."

It's now 10:20pm and I am sitting in my room at the Hotel Cyrnos on Rue Montmartre in Paris. Everything went smoothly - no delays, no lost baggage (thank God). I got to the hotel exhausted around 2pm this afternoon but before taking a nap, I ventured out to survey the neighborhood and determine just how close my apartment really is to the hotel (since I'm going to have to drag 3 rather large rolling suitcases over there tomorrow). Luckily, the apartment building is in fact just around the corner. This should make things pretty easy in the morning.

After a yummy baguette I went back to the hotel and crashed for a few hours. When I got up it was dark and I decided to venture out again to find a Tabac where I could purchase a SIM card for the unlocked cell phone I bought on eBay for $20. After weeks of research, the best (and easiest) way to go seemed to be a company called Mobiho. And indeed it was! The Mobiho Web site had a list of locations where you could buy SIMs and I went to one just down the street from the hotel. I popped it in and... voila! I have a French mobile :-) The only tricky part is the Mohibo Web site is completely in French... but somehow, I figured it out. All incoming calls are free and calls I make to the US only run 18 cents a minute. The SIM card was 15 euro but comes with an 8 euro credit and is easily refillable. If anyone wants my cell number, email me and I'll send it to you (I can send and receive text messages as well). Not sure you'll want to pay international calling rates to chat, but since incoming calls are free for me, call away ;-)

I also found a little market closeby that I suspect I'll be doing a lot of shopping at. I'm looking forward to getting into the apartment tomorrow so I can buy food and cook rather that have to buy every meal out. Of course that didn't stop me from getting a chicken (I mean poulet) pannini on the way back to the hotel tonight!

And that's it for day one: getting over jet lag, scoping out the neighborhood and getting my cell phone working.

Tomorrow will be a busy day. I have to move into the apartment, buy my month-long metro pass and go over to the Alliance Francais to finalize registration and pay the balance due for the course I'll be taking. Tomorrow night I'll be posting photos of my tiny (but very own, at least for a month) studio apartment - yeah!

p.s. It's cold (weather.com says it's 41 and feels like 34), but I love it! I put my diet coke and water bottles out on the window ledge to chill for the evening :-)

Monday, October 27, 2008

Bonjour

As I set up this blog, it doesn't seem real that in just a few days I'll be posting from my own flat in Paris! For a whole month, GuidedParis.com will be based on the Rue du Croissant (seriously) in the 2nd Arrondissement - about a 10 minute walk from the Louvre museum, close to the Paris Opera House. Finding a furnished apartment was an adventure itself. But I think (make that hope) that I found a good place to call home for the month I'll be living in my favorite city in the world!

So I leave for Paris on Wednesday, October 29 and I return to Florida the night before Thanksgiving, on Wednesday, November 26.

While I'm there, I'll be taking intensive French classes at the Alliance Francais. One of the reasons I really wanted to do this was for the language training. They say being immersed in the culture of a place is the best way to learn... we shall see! When I'm not in class I'll be spending every waking moment soaking up as much of the city as I can. And taking weekend trips - London anyone?! ;-)

Sadly I won't be here for the election. However, I will be voting early tomorrow (every vote counts!) and I made sure that my studio has, a) high speed internet; and b) cable tv w/international channels (i.e. CNN International) so I can watch as the results come in and IM with people throughout the evening!

Speaking of keeping in touch.... anyone have Skype? I got a new netbook (the Asus Eee 900HA - a darling baby laptop) that has a built in web cam, microphone and Skype but I don't know anybody else who has it to do a test run with!

Of course I have not packed yet... afterall, I still have two days before I leave for a month - ha! But seriously, I better get off the computer (some things never change) and get started.

For those of you who know me and how much I love all things Paris, I'm sure you can appreciate just how excited I am about this amazing opportunity. As cliche as it sounds, this really is a dream come true for me. And I'm so looking forward to sharing the experience with everyone on this blog. I plan on posting daily and I hope I'll hear from many of you while I'm on my Parisian adventure.

My next post will be later in the week (Thursday, October 30) once I've arrived in Paris. I'll be spending that first day/night at a hotel around the corner from my apartment as it won't be ready for me to occupy until Friday. But I of course made sure the hotel has high speed internet as well, so I can blog. What did we ever do before the Internet?!?!?

Off to pack now....

Au Revoir
~Gina